The drive was so, so beautiful, and I am so glad we were able to do it. It was just what we needed after such a sad departure from the Valley. I think I have decided that if I visit Yosemite again, I would want to plan it so I could spend the majority of the time up in the Sierra. The views from Olmstead Pont, both looking down on the Valley at Half Dome and, on the other side, down on Tenaya Lake, were amazing. And Tuolumne Meadows was gorgeous, even being under a decent amount of water. I spotted two bears in meadows on the way up, though from a great distance (I think we forgot to mention that we also saw a rather large bear in a meadow in the Valley last Tuesday, but from the safe confines of the shuttle bus), and many marmots, lizards, and squirrels once at the top.
And then the drive over Tioga Pass from the high country into an almost desert-type landscape was such an incredible contrast. Almost immediately, Mono Lake came into view. Mono Lake is nestled at the edge of the arid Great Basin and the snowy Sierra Mountains, and is a 70-square-mile saline lake. To throw in some history, in 1941, the Los Angeles Department of Water & Power began excessive water diversions from Mono Basin streams. As a result, Mono Lake dropped 45 vertical feet, lost half its volume, and doubled in salinity. This obviously began to devastate its rather unique and productive ecosystem. The lake has no fish -- just trillions of brine shrimp and alkali flies, which are food to the millions of migratory birds that visit the lake each year. Eighty percent of California's gulls are born here (the other twenty percent must be born at Alcatraz!). In 1978, the Mono Lake Committee was founded in response to the threat of this collapse, and to make a long story short, they took the City of Los Angeles to court in 1979, and the city has since become one of the most water-conscious cities in the US. And the lake is slowly rising. In visiting the lake, though, it is astounding to see the markers noting where the edge of the lake used to lie. So much water is missing. But that does not make the landscape any less impressive. With its clear water, its tufa (towers of calcium carbonate that bubbles up from freshwater springs beneath the surface), the brushy landscape in the foreground, and the snow-capped peaks in the background, it is quite the looker.
Elsa had a grand time running around on the shore, dipping her fingers in the water (and falling in), and playing in the sand/rocks. On a health note, she seems to be doing great -- even the rash has disappeared. She takes her last round of antibiotics today, and she did not seem bothered by the drive over the high elevations yesterday, which we had been concerned about.
We have had a nice time here in little Lee Vining. We had been told by a ranger and others about the awesome food at Whoa Nellie Deli, an eating establishment here, located in none other than the Mobil gas station at the junction of Highways 120 and 395, so we had to check it out. It was, indeed, awesome. Jarrett had the wild buffalo meatloaf and I had a sirloin Caesar salad. Yummy. Elsa had a slice of cheese pizza (or at least part of it). The place is brilliant. Great food in an unassuming atmosphere -- perfect for the weary and hungry hiker. If it has not already been, it should definitely be featured on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. We had dinner at a little BBQ place, which was just okay. I think Jarrett is realizing BBQ out here ain't what we're used to in the South. BBQ here means ribs, BBQ chicken, etc., not pulled pork slathered in BBQ sauce.
I think this morning we might check out Whoa Nellie's breakfast offerings, and then pack it up and move it out. After a bubble bath for Elsa and showers for us, we are feeling pretty good. We are going to hit Bodie today, a ghost town, and then on to Lake Tahoe for two nights. The three nights following are still up in the air, but we are hoping to find a first-come/first-served campground somewhere along the North Coast, if possible. It looks like all reservations are booked. Wish us luck!
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